Note: These Emergency telephone number may
be of value if there are accidents:
Chemtrec 800-924-9300
BASF 800-832-HELP
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD making instructions.
Datak supplies PC board making materials for use in developing prototypes, small
production runs and experimenter-hobbyist projects.
Note: for use only with Datak Products; mixing in or use with other suppliers’ products
will probably not work.
In brief, Datak has three methods for making PC boards:
1. Positive acting, pre-sensitized boards (on this page, below).
2. Negative
spray for application to any copper PC Board surface.
3. Direct-etch dry-transfers for use on clear film OR on copper as a
resist. (under construction and due about earlyFeb of 2M3.)
4. Making a Two-sided PC Board (double sided printed circuit
board).
For the first, Positive method,
instructions are below. For the Negative
spray , click on the title for a link to the instructions.
You may also request a copy of the complete Datak Instructions
booklet no. 12-760-A by sending a US Postal mailing address via email at LKGIndustries@compuserve.com
Note that etching instructions are at the bottom of this page and may be used universally with the Positive, Negative or Direct-Etch processes. As far as we know, the same process will work well with any of our competitors standard, FR-4 PC boards.
INSTRUCTIONS for USING the DATAK PREMIER series
POSITIVE ACTING PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARDS.
POSITIVE PRESENSITIZED PC BOARDS 
The Method is the easiest to use of the various methods for making
a PCB. Although the negative method may cost less, the Positive method’s fewer steps and
time savings more or less offset any savings in material costs (when compared to other
methods).
Positive PC Boards… What are they? The boards are standard, 1 oz.
copper PC boards with a Fiberglas substrate. The copper is coated with a light-sensitive
chemical that is often called a photo-resist or a sensitizer. When this
coating is exposed to enough light, the coating will rinse away in a developer solution,
exposing the copper beneath. The copper is then etched, leaving untouched the copper pads
and traces that are your circuit. Positive boards are available in a
number of sizes ranging from 2" x 4" up to 12" X 12" and with the
photo resist, or sensitizer and copper on one or two sides.
Before use, you may want to cut the PC
board to size. The ideal cutting tool is a sheet metal shear. (We have also seen excellent
results using a fine-tooth band saw.) Please be careful if using a paper cutter as
there is a different pull and ‘feel’ when cutting a board and fingers could be
"dragged" into the blade and severely injured if you do not hold the board very,
very securely.
Be sure to Score the protective film with a
sharp knife on the line where you will be shearing the PC board. Or, score it with a cut
on either side of the line where it will be sheared. Scoring the protective plastic film
will prevent the plastic from pulling resist from adjacent areas during the shearing. (Use
an Xacto, or other very sharp knife for scoring.)
NEW and big savings…
this is a fairly new and excellent enhancement for positive boards. An Ultraviolet, or
U/V, light source is not needed for exposing the Premier Series PC
boards. And note that if you were accustomed to using our older systems, you will now mix
the developer concentrate ten to one with tap water instead of the older recipe of
three to one.
EXPOSURE and DEVELOPING: 
Step 1. Work in very subdued light with no sunlight or fluorescent
light entering the room. A yellow 25 watt ‘buglight" bulb provides a good
safelight; or use a low wattage (15W) incandescent bulb at a distance from the PC Board.
Cut the PC board to size and then remove the
plastic protective cover from the PC board with a peeling motion, rolling it back off of
the resist. Roll the cover slowly, with a steady pressure. Pulling ‘up’ on the film may
remove some resist from the PC board.
Place the board, resist side up in a Datak exposure
frame or under a heavy piece of glass. Place your positive on top of the sensitized
coating on the PC board and sandwich the two in the exposure frame.
The Exposure Frame: This device will be
familiar to you if you have ever made photographic prints. The frame is simply a holder
for a board and piece of glass. With your positive in place on top of a precoated board,
put the two in the frame under the glass and slide into the frame. The frame will hold the
PC board and your positive tightly together during exposure.
Expose the PC board
Expose the board, held in the frame, to the
light of a 100 watt white lightbulb. Best results will result if the bulb is in a hooded,
reflector type lamp shade. By this, we mean the kind that is white inside and reflects
light.
EXPOSURE TIMES: A single 100 watt bulb at
a distance of 12" for a ten minute exposure time is recommended for boards up to
about 6" X 6" (or smaller) in size. We suggest using a fairly "young"
bulb, one with less than ten hours of use.
Exposure for PC boards larger than 6" X
6" may require either using two bulbs, side by side (about 2" between them).
Very large boards, about 12" X 12" can be done either by exposing the two halves
of the board separately or placing three bulbs in a triangular pattern (which can be a bit
tricky). You may cover half a board with cardboard, expose for ten minutes and then expose
the other half while covering the exposed half.
Another technique for exposing larger boards is to suspend the bulb
from its power cord and let it swing in a circle for roughly fourteen or fifteen minutes
(at the 12" distance).
Develop the board: 
While the board is being exposed, prepare a
tray of developer solution. Use either Datak no. 12-402 or 12-406 liquid concentrate
only. Mix the Datak developer 1 part of concentrate to 10* parts water. NOTE: mix with
warm water. A cold developer is not going to work. The temperature should be above room
temperature (about 100 to 110 degrees F)
Use glass or a plastic photographic tray (never
metal). Use just enough developer to cover the board (1/4" to 3/8" deep is
usually good). After exposing, place the PC board in the tray and rock the tray gently
until the copper is fully exposed in areas to be etched. It will be obvious to you when
the copper is bare; be sure that there is no haze or film remaining. Rinse a developed
board in cold water for a minute. Tap water is fine. Cold water stops the process
and ‘sets’ the resist; after immersion in clean cold water, normal room lighting will not
affect the resist further.
Etching the PC Board: 
Your are now ready to etch the board. We suggest using Datak Ferric Chloride etchant. It
is messy and we warn against using this etchant in a home environment (except out of
doors) as it can stain almost anything, including counter tops, floors etc.. Ferric
Chloride is not an acid, not especially dangerous in small amounts and is actually used in
some garden fertilizers. We DO recommend using goggles to protect your
eyes from splashes. And use with good ventilation; some people find the fumes very
irritating to the throat and lungs. This author steps into the garden to etch boards; the
plants do not seem affected at all.
The old method of disposal by flushing with a
large quantity of water is probably no longer acceptable in your community. Contact
a local Hazardous Waste Disposal Company for instructions about disposal. One technique
used to reduce the volume/weight of the waste products is to to add washing soda (sodium
carbonate) or sodium hydroxide until the pH value of the solution is between 7.0 and 8.0.
Test with pH indicating paper. When the solution is in that range, copper will be
contained in a sludge at the bottom and the liquid on top may be poured down a drain,
flushing with cold water. Contain the sludge in a plastic or glass jar and ask your
Hazardous Disposal company what to do next.
Use Datak bottled Ferric Chloride etchant or
Datak powdered concentrate, which is then mixed with water following the instructions on
the package. Warm the etchant before use. (You can warm the etchant by placing its storage
bottle in a bucket of hot tap water for about fifteen minutes.) Hot etchant works
best, but warm will work. Cold etchant may not get the job done, can even cause problems.
You can use the etchant in a couple of ways.
One, place the etchant in your photographic tray and not too deep(never a metal tray; use
glass or plastic). Place the board, face up, in the etchant and then agitate the tray
almost constantly, including some rocking. It is important to keep the etchant moving on
the surface of the copper. Check periodically to see if the etching is complete; be sure
to etch all exposed copper. Time varies, but you should be close to finished in not more
than fifteen minutes.
This author prefers using a large mouth plastic jar for etching.
Placing about 3/8" to 5/8" deep etchant in the jar with your PC board and
placing the lid on the jar. This permits swirling and some gentle shaking back and forth
which will etch a board very quickly. A left over jar from many foods from Cashews to
Biscotti have a large enough mouth and a plastic lid (never use a metal lid). 
Monitor the etching progress by tipping the jar to see if copper has been completely removed from areas not protected by the resist. DO NOT over-etch; undercutting will occur and narrow traces and pad diameters. We expect small 2" x 4" boards and smaller to be finished in around seven minutes. The time required to etch is affected by the warmth of the etchant (warmer the better), the amount of swirling action, oxygen that gets into the solution while swirling and, of course, if the etchant is new or has been used before.
When ETCHING IS COMPLETE, you may rinse the board in a flush of tap water, dry with paper towels and proceed to drilling the pads. When you wish to remove the remaining resist, use a fingernail polish remover. Inspect the copper during drilling. (If there are breaks in lands (traces) or pads, you can bridge them with a small copper wire and solder.)
Final notes: Here are some helpful tips for users of the
positive PC boards:
1. Store used developer in a plastic or glass bottle. Plastic is best
as you may squeeze most of the air out of the bottle and cap tightly. Do this because the
developer will react, over time, with the carbon dioxide in the air and decompose.
2. You can use the developer until it simply does not perform; then
flush it down the sink with a fast cold water chaser. Storing developer in a refrigerator
can help to keep it fresh for very long periods.
3. If the board proves to be tough to etch, you probably did not
develop it long enough and some resist residue remained behind. Or, said residue can also
be caused by too short an exposure time, too weak a light source and so on.
4. Etchant may be reused and stored in a plastic or glass bottle; use only a
plastic (not metal) cap.
When etchant is obviously taking much too long to etch, it has expired and a fresh batch
is needed.
5. We strongly recommend that all PC board drilling be done with a drill
press. Accurate drilling with a handheld drill is nearly impossible.
Questions? Ask us at TheseusRob@cs.com
or request written instructions via Uncle Sam’s mail Be sure to send your address in your
request. Your email address will not be sold to anyone else,but we may bother you with new
product announcements once in a while.
end positive instructions. 
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